GRADE: Up to and including Grade II
USES: Popular trout and salmon fishing each day during the season (Feb ~ Sept).
(No salmon fishing on Sunday.)
O.S. Maps: Sheets 35; 36 &28. Also Harveys “Speyside Way” (Waterproof) Map
ACCESS POINTS: (‘Traditional’/recommended.)
The Scottish Land Reform Act allows for reasonable and responsible pedestrian/canoe access, anywhere along the river, which is not over an area of curtilage and causes no damage to property or crops.
Laggan Bridge – (GR.615942) River right, below road bridge.
Lochain Uvie – (GR.674957) River left via larger of two lochans. Park in lay-by below Creag Dhubh crags.
Newtonmore - (GR.709980) River right, below Speybridge. (Left bank only if resident on Speybridge Campsite).
Kingussie - (GR.759997) River right, below bridge to Ruthven Barracks. (Use gate on upstream side of the road.)
Loch Insh SW – (GR.822043) Lay-by opposite gate lodge. Access SW corner of Loch Insh via arch under railway.
Loch Insh NE- (GR.837045) Commercial water-sports centre site at NE corner of the Loch.
Kincraig – (GR.835054) River right below church. Park in lay-by opposite church. Please close the gate.
Aviemore - River left, downstream of both road and foot bridges, from car park serving the Old Bridge Inn.
Boat of Garten - River left, downstream side of road bridge.
Broomhill Bridge - River left by bridge. Careful, temporary parking possible, downstream side of bridge.
Grantown on Spey - (GR.028266) River left ~ approx. 450 metres above main-road bridge (by parking areas).
Cromdale - River right below bridge, by the church.
Dellefure Burn - (GR.085316) - River left. (Limited parking space by track leading to fishing hut, upstream. Please do not block track.)
Advie Bridge - (GR.120354) - River left. Need to park on verge, ~ river-left, by five bar gate.
Delneigh Pool – (GR138353) – 1 Mile downstream of Advie Bridge. Access via signposted track. Follow track, passing maintenance sheds to your right, until reaching ample parking and turning area by the water’s edge.
Ballindalloch March Pool (++) - (GR 158369) – River left, where road comes within 10 metres of the river. (Difficult parking because of boulders placed close to roadside.) This, along with Ballindalloch (Main Access) listed below continues to be one of the most frequently used access locations on the Spey.
Ballindalloch (Main access) (++) - (GR.167368) - River left, some 750m downstream of above. Limited parking on left-hand side of road. Avoid leaving vehicles parked here. Currently only pedestrian access available towards the field 150 metres from road, previously available to paddlers. Vehicular access to be reinstated ASAP. (Carpark development scheduled 2008.) Most convenient access presently through metal gate on right at bottom of hill. Turn right through gate instead of left towards the field awaiting development.
Delnapot (Bridge) (++) - (GR.169368) - River left below railway bridge, for possible use by those camping (river right) at the small Speyside Way Cragganmore campsite, by the old Ballindalloch station. (Disused railway line - part of the Speyside Way.) Car parking available by the campsite via B9137 just off A95.
Cragganmore – (GR.171367) River right. Accessible immediately before the houses approaching Cragganmore village from the A95. Lay-by on south side of B9137, with footpath opposite, leading (25m) directly to the riverside.
Marypark Bridge (++) – River left just upstream of bridge. (Good for paddlers who propose to camp at the old Blacksboat Railway Station and wish to leave their boats under the bridge.)
Easy, quick cycle access along the Speyside Way from Knockando for those prepared to ‘shuttle-transport’ by bike to the above indicated (++) access points. (Possible for other accesses/egresses down as far as Craigellachie.
Knockando - (GR.195415) - River left below Tamdhu distillery. Ample vehicle parking by the old station.
Please do not block emergency and maintenance access to Speyside Way – between the platforms.
Carron – River left by road bridge. Careful, temporary parking (river left) in passing place possible. Access to river via small path, immediate on right just after entering the estate track, on downstream side of bridge.
Aberlour - River right above Victoria foot bridge or for easier boat handling, especially in low water conditions ~ 200 metres below bridge river right at a cut in the bank known locally as ‘The Sandhole’.
Craigellachie (1) - River right just below the Telford bridge. Car park adjacent.
Craigellachie (2) – If using the Boat o’Fiddich Park campsite – right bank by small black fishing hut, some 500 metres below the road bridge, approx. 300m above the confluence of the Fiddich Water.
Boat o’ Brig – River left above or below bridge. Access via track leading past water-board building.There is also a small Speyside Way car-park right bank between the bridges. Access to river possible here river right but difficult because of dumpling of large boulders from railway maintenance works.
Fochabers - River right below road bridge. Track access from a sizeable parking lay-by situated on the river side of the Spey Bay road (B9104) just off the A98.
Spey Bay - River right adjacent to buildings and vehicle parking (Tugnet).
The above constitutes a list of traditionally recognised, long used and, for the most part, with the full agreement of the land/estate owners. However, The Land Reform Act (Scotland) facilitates reasonable access at any point which can be reached by foot, without damage to property.
At all times whilst enjoying the beauty and majesty of this wonderful river, please in return
Park, launch and land with care and consideration at all locations.
Leave absolutely no litter. If you brought it in, then please, you take it out. (And, if practical, that left by other previous less caring, less responsible persons.)
On departure from any camping site no evidence should remain of your being there. Perhaps only the odd temporarily flattened blade of grass. Good guidance is contained within the Mountaineering Council of Scotland’s ‘Wild Camping’ leaflet
Any fires should be lit only in a safe location, well away from trees and other flammable vegetation/structures, ideally on a stone/shingle base (dry riverbed ideal). Once extinguished, no evidence of the fire should remain.
If ‘wild toiletting’, please do so with utmost of consideration for others and the environment. Follow the guidance contained in the Mountaineering Council of Scotland’s ‘Where to go in the Great Outdoors’
Whilst gaining rightful, responsible access as per the Land Reform (Scotland) Act, respect the activities of other river users. By the same token, expect they will in turn respect your responsible use of the river and its surroundings. Follow the ‘Paddlers’ Access Code’
This Guide is also available on-line ~ www.speyguide.co.uk
For detailed information on OutdoorAccess in Scotland visit ~ www.outdooraccess-scotland.com
GENERAL DESCRIPTION:
A major river that can usually be relied upon to give reasonable water levels at all seasons. Probably one of the most beautiful rivers in Britain, flowing past the Cairngorms, through Badenoch and Strathspey and into the Moray Firth at Spey Bay. There is nothing highly technical on the river, however, on sections downstream of Grantown-on-Spey there is a good number of entertaining Grade II rapids.
The river is navigable for most of it's length ~ almost from the source at Loch Spey (where the Spey shares a water shed with the turbulent River Roy). A major hazard occurring just above Laggan Bridge is the Spey Dam, which like the River Roy steals the Spey's waters and takes them westward (this time to help power an aluminium smelter). However, much water and a lot of portage are normally required to make these higher reaches navigable. Although Laggan Bridge is a fairly good access point, Newtonmore is normally recognised as the highest reasonable starting place. Roads run close to the river throughout its length.
ACCESS
In addition to that contained within the Scottish Land Reform Act, which allows for responsible pedestrian; cycle; horse and non-motorised boat access, there is a public right of navigation on the River Spey. ‘Navigation’ extends to movement over the water ~ up, down and across stream. However, obviously it is imperative that there is mutual respect and co-operation between all water users. In recent years substantial bridges have been built through constructive communication between the paddle-sports and angling bodies. All paddlers should make all reasonable effort to minimise disturbance to anglers and prevent upset. Those who paddle the Spey regularly are grateful for the co-operation of the riparian owners, ghillies and Spey Fishery Board staff who give of their time to liase with us, thus keeping open constructive, mutually beneficial lines of communication.
THE RIVER
Canoeists can start a scenic, leisurely paddle from opposite the campsite at Spey Bridge just above Newtonmore. The stretch to Kingussie can be shallow but offers a variety of small, fun rapids ~ good for a first time experience on moving water. Apart from a couple of minor rapids below the Ruthven Bridge at Kingussie, the river meanders slowly through the Insh Marshes, an important bird sanctuary, and into Loch Insh ~ a major pool in the River Spey. Fallen trees and overhanging branches are the main hazards on these upper sections. Presently, (June 05) there is a particularly large root where the river sets in against the left bank at a location above Kinrara House, just upstream of The Duchess of Gordon’s Monument (GR 867074). With immense help from the Spey Fisheries Board, the troublesome log-choke above West Lodge of Rothiemurchus was cleared in April 2004. Clearance work is on going
Below Aviemore there are some short, easy rapids but once past Boat of Garten the river moves slowly through very flat land. This slow moving stretch continues to around Broomhill Bridge. (Just below Broomhill, at Boat of Balliefurth ~ GR. 013245 ~ is an ideal, easily accessed campsite.)
On the approach to Grantown-on-Spey, the river becomes rocky and once through the road bridge the water starts to move more decidedly seaward. From Grantown to Ballindalloch the river offers a variety of easy Grade II rapids. We have now moved into the prime fishing beats of the Spey. Going under Advie Bridge it is worth, in low water conditions, moving river right to under the second ‘arch’, beyond the middle support, to avoid the rows of post stumps remaining under the left ‘arch’ from a previous bridge structure.
The Ballindalloch to Knockando section includes the best of the white water on the Spey. It is fairly heavily used by paddlers. Please alleviate parking problems at the Ballindalloch site by moving vehicles on down to Knockando, where there is ample parking space. Alternatively, one can access the bridge from river right close by the bunkhouse situated in the old Ballindalloch Railway Station. The shuttle on this section is very easily done by bicycle using the Speyside Way, making for a shorter journey, on the return to Ballindalloch from Knockando. As well as being environmentally friendly, using bicycles in shuttles here can avoid potential parking problems at the Ballindalloch parking/launch area as it minimises vehicle numbers and requires no vehicles to be left at the start point.
Downstream of the bridge at Ballindalloch the River Avon (pronounced Aann) enters the Spey from the right. Here, a more interesting Grade II rapid on a double bend introduces the heavier section of the river. Next is Blacksboat Rapid (GR. 181380), a location where the river bed drops fairly sharply and, particularly in low water conditions, the Spey's waters are funnelled into a straight, fast flowing, turbulent water chute providing a real, natural roller-coaster ride. Running parallel with the river at this point, and on downstream to Spey Bay, is the Speyside Way. This is a scenic long-distance footpath stretching to Aviemore, with a spur to Tomintoul, following part of the route of the dismantled Strathspey railway line and from Tugnet along the coast, almost to Buckie. Some 800 metres below Blacksboat Rapid is the disused Blacksboat Station, which now serves as a very basic camping area at the side of the Way. No facilities are available except for a cold-water tap, situated to the rear of the building. Ballindalloch Estate have marked, with white posts, a lunch-stop site some 500 metres downstream of Blacksboat Bridge.
One is now in an area where small places are big in worldwide terms of malt-whisky names! In a little over two kilometres below Blacksboat Bridge the river bends and one can see the chimneys of the Tamdhu Distillery, signalling the approach to Knockando ~ probably the best known of all Spey rapids (and a fine malt!). At Knockando the river provides interest in most conditions although, as with many of the Spey rapids, it can become a little "washed-out" when the river is high. This two-part rapid has been designated, through local agreement (see below) as a white water training area. The access and egress point is immediately below the rapid on the left bank with a steep path leading up to the old disused railway platform. For ease of loading and unloading and carrying boats it is possible to park on the old railway line by the top of the access path. However, as the railway line is now part of the Speyside Way the track should not be obstructed.
At the instigation and subsequent provision of ground by Knockando Estates, linked with funding from Sportscotland, in May 2002 a new toilet and changing rooms facility was opened at Knockando Rapid, for use by paddlers and walkers. This is an excellent example of an estate working hand in hand with the governing bodies of sports. Knockando Estates are not only prepared to negotiate with recreational users but also realise, in economic terms, the value of outdoor pursuits to the area of Strathspey. Many thanks are extended to the Wills family for their forward thinking and co-operation. Situated river left, half way up the riverbank, by the steps just below the end of the rapid, the unit comprises a male and female changing area and “composting toilet”. Please endeavour to leave the facility cleaner than when you arrived. Any “foreign objects” dropped down the toilet will completely negate the composting process. However, a handful of the sawdust (provided in bins) should be thrown down the toilet after use. To ensure long term access to this key facility, we must make every effort possible to use these facilities with all due care and respect.
The scenery from Knockando to Fochabers is some of the most picturesque on the Spey with an interesting variety of rapids. This is an extremely pleasant, entertaining section underestimated, indeed unknown to many paddlers. Many appear to assume that only the Ballindalloch to Knockando section offers white water. In the final twenty miles to the sea the river passes through steep, tree laden banks, past stunning red sandstone cliffs and pinnacles, then moves into flatter land but still presenting a number of entertaining rapids and very few slow pools. There are many key salmon fishing pools on this section. Here more than almost anywhere else on the river, expect to liase with and negotiate past large numbers of anglers. (Estates managers have requested the use of whistles ~ likely to be heard over the noise of the water ~ to attract the attention of the angler, as canoes approach. Thus allowing the angler to indicate which side they would prefer canoes to pass.)
On the approach to Boat o’ Brig beware of a large boulder situated in the middle of the flow, at a left-hand bend know as ‘Otter Hole’. Then on the Braewater Estate approx. 1½ miles above Fochabers, after the final section of red sandstone banking, look out for on river right three large croys (~ man-made rock dykes built out into the water). These obstacles are probably the most likely to cause boat wreckage on the whole of the Spey. However, with care, they can be avoided. In approaching the lower, tidal section, in certain conditions, severe turbulence can occur, thus making paddling quite difficult. It is inadvisable to enter the sea in conditions of off-shore winds This said, for most of the time this whole final section is a very pleasant approach to the waves at Spey Bay, where the fresh meets the salt.
(In addition to the O.S. maps listed at the start of this guide, Harveys Maps have produced an excellent waterproof map (ISBN 1-85137-337-3) which covers the length of the Speyside Way. This publication would be a valuable asset for anyone navigating the Spey, downstream of Aviemore.)
Ballindalloch to Knockando
Since the early 1980’s substantial bridges have been built through constructive communication between paddlers and anglers, particularly on this heavily used section of the river. Some years ago, the late Sir David Wills (proprietor of Lower Pitchroy, Phones and Knockando Estates) kindly agreed to the designation of Knockando Rapid as a ‘White Water Training Area’ which, also due to the co-operative nautre of Knockando Estates, has on the bank, close to the rapid a toilet and changing facility. The Training Area is available every day between 10am and 10pm. Please stay within the white posts (avoid playing in the pools above and below the rapids). Portage up along the path on the bank, river right, between the posts. Vehicular access will be from the public road to Knockando (Tamdhu) Station on the left bank and pedestrian access by the steps upstream of the "Station Pool". Paddlers are requested to egress out through the sizeable recessed eddy and up the double set of steps (near to the changing hut) on the left bank just where the fast water ends.
Paddlers who wish to seek local advice when passing through Knockando waters, (includes from approx. 1 km. below Blacksboat Bridge to approx 1km. above Carron Bridge) then please contact the Estate by phoning the factor, Duncan Dunbar-Naismith (07919 183260 or 01340 810580) or one of the Estate ghillies: 01340 810278 (Sandy Smith).
Ballindalloch Estate Office staff can also be contacted on 01807 500205 (Factor ~ Tim Atkinson). Ballindalloch Estate waters stretch from the access point at GR 158369 to the pool downstream of Craigroy Island, approx 1km. below Blacksboat Bridge. Representatives from these Estates cannot deny access but may suggest the most suitable time, from a fishing perspective, for canoeing on that particular day. Those planning to egress at Blacksboat Bridge in order to use the Blacksboat Station camping area might also wish contact the Ballindalloch Estate Office ~ simply “to intimate intentions”, which normally entails leaving boats under Blacksboat Bridge.
Knockando Estate has requested, where possible, canoes and rafts adhere to the following guidelines:
Through Knockando Estates fishing pools, (ie all pools approx.1km downstream of the island below Blacksboat Bridge to a point approx. 3km below Knockando Station), apart from the initial two pools where paddlers are requested to stay over river left, please move over towards the right bank on other lower pools. Please look out for a section of concrete banking on river right, approx. 1 mile into Knockando Estate. Please stay right thereafter. As a further indicator ~ for all pools through Knockando Estates with fishing huts close-by, please stay river-right.
Otherwise, paddlers should follow the key points laid out in the Access Code for Paddlers produced in conjunction with the Scottish Canoe Association and Scottish Natural Heritage. This publication is available from the SCA office.
NB. As stated on Page 1 of this Guide ~
The Scottish Land Reform Act allows for reasonable and responsible pedestrian/canoe access, anywhere along the river, which is not over an area of curtilage and causes no damage to property or crops. (Feb. 05)
For detailed information on Outdoor Access in Scotland visit ~ www.outdooraccess-scotland.com
Additional Information
GYRODACTYLUS SALARIS
A salmon parasite known as Gyrodactylus salaris (Gs) is present in the rivers of some European countries, especially Norway, and it is of great importance that it is not brought into the UK. If it did get into our rivers the consequences would be disastrous to canoeing and many of our rural industries. Whilst live fish imports present the greatest risk of importing the parasite, recreational users of water, such as canoeists, sailors, windsurfers and anglers have the potential to bring the parasite into the country if they do not follow some simple precautions.
The Scottish Canoe Association website carries detailed advice for paddlers travelling abroad. Visit www.canoescotland.com and click on Access & Environment then go to Waterborne Diseases then Gyrodactylus salaris. As well as the Scottish Canoe Association's own advice there are links to further advice (in English) from the Norwegian Canoe Association. This is a very serious issue that all recreational users of water should be familiar with. Please help to keep this disease out of the UK and do what you can to help raise awareness of the dangers.
SIGNAL CRAYFISH
A fresh water inhabitant, the Signal Crayfish is a North American species that was imported into England in the mid-1970s. It has now established thriving populations in numerous river systems in Southern Britain and is now found in several streams in Scotland. Studies have demonstrated that it can have very harmful effects on our native flora and fauna, including its liking for fish eggs. The distribution of Signal Crayfish in Scotland is believed to be restricted to a few streams in the south west, although isolated specimens have been reported further north. If you observe Signal Crayfish in Scottish waters, or see evidence of them such as body parts, you should report the sighting to the Freshwater Research Services Laboratory at Pitlochry. Further details can be found on their website at: http://www.marlab.ac.uk/Uploads/Documents/FW-SignalCrayfish.pdf.
FRESH WATER PEARL MUSSELS
River users are being asked by the Scottish Wildlife Crime Unit to report to local police anything which might be considered suspicious, surrounding possible damage to the Fresh Water Pearl Mussel. Regrettably, illegal fishing of this valuable creature is still being practised. Any help we can give in reporting any such incidents ~ people walking in the water without fishing rods; using glass bottomed buckets; large quantities of opened shells, etc. would be very valuable in ensuring the continued existence of the Fresh Water Mussel which world-wide, now survives in only a few Scottish rivers. Because their life cycle depends upon their eggs being carried for a time in the gills of Salmon, Fresh Water Pearl Mussels only survive in salmon rivers. The Spey is a key river in terms of FWPM stocks. Please help protect them.
For further details of the FWPM and its protection, log on to www.nwcu.police.uk
LIST OF USEFUL STRATHSPEY CONTACT ADDRESSES & NUMBERS
TOURIST OFFICES
NEWTONMORE 01540 673253
KINGUSSIE 01540 661297 (Easter ~ Oct.)
AVIEMORE 01479 810930
CARRBRIDGE 01479 841630 (Easter ~ Oct.)
GRANTOWN ON SPEY 01479 872773
DUFFTOWN 01340 820501
ELGIN 01343 542666
BUNKHOUSE/CAMPING TYPE ACCOMMODATION
1. Invernahavon Caravan Park, Glentruim, Newtonmore. PH20 1BE 01540 673534
(Kenny & Susie Knox)
